As a preface to this post I must warn you that it is, unfortunately, not about the fashion. I feel it’s crucial this fashion month to pass criticism firstly on fashion debate and media before we start to really dissect the shows. Put simply, things have gotten a little twisted.
The simple fact is that trapped underneath the waves of articles and ‘content’ that gets thrown at us in notification after notification over social media and of course traditional media as well, is fashion. Fashion, ideas, history, culture, sub-culture, emotion and desire all live-packaged up in looks sent down the runway at fashion shows throughout the month. Somewhere this got totally lost this season and I’m just not sure why that is. You’d imagine that the fact that the guardian piece on the Marc Jacobs show (which we’ll speak about later), focusing on Marc and Anna Wintour having the same T-shirt on and that he cast his friend Lady Gaga to be in the show, must mean the fashion was tired and uninspired. It’s just that…well that’s not true. The truth is that the show was a triumph, full of historic reimagining and reference, full of character and I thought very charming and well presented. The same of course must be said about the focus given to the Yeezy audience, as a pose to any comment on what the fashion might say (again more on this to come). Even more frustrating has to be the pieces that I’ve read that dare to compare Rihanna’s puma collection to not only Alexander Wang but Vetements! Fashion criticism is in a real crisis when a celebrity having a simple affiliation to a sports and streetwear brand, that does a few oversized cuts suddenly gets compared (positively I must add) to Vetements, a fashion house with collections that are steeped in concept and narrative.